air conditioning installation

Air Conditioning Installation – An Expert Guide

Want to make your home a more comfortable place? Central air conditioning installation is an excellent way to cool off when the summer heat gets too intense. Read on for information about what it takes, including costs and how to select the absolute best model for you.

Air conditioning is no longer just a luxury item for the lazy, but rather an essential. The heat of summer has become unbearable and many are tempted to pull out their old window units or wall air conditioners in order to replace them with new whole-house central cooling systems. These products offer much more than used to–they can be customized based on your needs, they’re quiet enough so as not to disrupt any activity you might have going on inside your home (this includes sleeping!), some even come equipped with Wi-Fi!

When it comes to your home’s heating and cooling system, you need a plan that is going to work for the long haul. Forced-air furnace ducts are installed in many homes today because they provide reliable heating during cold months as well as cool air during hot summer days. But if these have already been fitted with no other options available then adding central air may be something worth considering, especially when it’s much easier on the wallet than having new ones put into place or an entirely different type of installation done altogether.

How Much Does It Cost to Install Central Air?

The central air unit is a great addition to the forced-air heating system. It can be installed in two days with little or no change needed for your ductwork and it costs just around $3,500-$4,000!

There are many other ways to work with ducts without the need for tearing down walls. One way is cleverly hiding them behind a wall, in closets and up in attics so that there are minimal cuts into floors or ceilings and very little mess.

How To Select The Best Central Air Unit

Why should you spend so much time on just the first order of business? Air conditioning equipment is one of the most important decisions in your home.

We want to help make this process easy for you, and we start by making sure that selecting the right air conditioner will be a piece of cake. When it comes down to what’s best for your house, our experts are always ready when needed!

Heat-Gain Calculation

Air conditioning contractors can use an AC CoA Manual J load calculation to figure out the size of your home’s cooling system. The calculations are very easy and will reveal what you need to be cooled efficiently, without wasting energy or costing too much money on heating bills. If a contractor is going around guessing at how big your house needs just by experience alone, find someone else who does this right – they might not know enough about homes like yours!

If you want to choose the size of your unit, there are many factors that can affect it. Factors include where in this world you live; the amount and type of insulation on your walls or ceiling; how well-insulated windows and doors allow heat into/out of your home; as well as whether or not solar heating affects a room’s temperature. These calculations may also help assess if upgrading building materials is worth it for energy efficiency purposes! By making your home more energy efficient, you may be able to control the temperature of different rooms in a cost-effective way.

How Big Of A Central Air Unit Is Needed?

One of the first things to consider when determining how big a central air unit you need is your home’s size. Here are some guidelines for figuring out what size system will be right:

Sizing The Unit

The air conditioner size you choose is an important factor in maintaining the temperature of your home. One ton equals 12,000 Btu per hour and it’s essential to get a unit that can handle all of the requirements for cooling your house based on its square footage, interior insulation level etc., so as not to be wasteful or inefficient with energy use.

Ever wondered why your air conditioner appears to be fighting a losing battle on the hottest days? It could have something to do with size. An undersized unit won’t be able to cool rooms down completely, which will leave you stuck in an uncomfortable situation and cost more than it should because of how long that small compressor needs to run continuously for. The bigger problem is an oversize compressor; one that just takes too much energy from time-to-time and leaves you paying way more per month without getting anything out of return other than sweating! Do yourself a favor by finding the perfect sized AC unit so this doesn’t happen again next summer.

As a homeowner, you should be aware of SEER ratings to choose the most energy-efficient air conditioner for your home. A higher rating means it will take less electricity and have lower operating costs; this is especially important considering how much power consumption by appliances can fluctuate with time because of inflation or economic recession.

The installation of a new air conditioning unit is one of the best ways to improve your quality and comfort in hot weather. Federal law requires that all units have at least 13 SEER, but it’s even better if you can afford an 18- or 24-SEER unit; these are capable of cutting down on power usage by 15% – 20%. This means more money saved for other household expenses!

Unit Types

There are two types of air conditioning systems: the “package system” and the fan-and-coil system. The package is a large wall unit that has ducts attached directly to it, but they’re rarer than their counterparts in this list – you’ll most likely be going with one of those!

With a “split system,” the condenser is outside and both the fan-and-coil systems is found inside; they are connected to one other through pipes that carry refrigerant. If you have a forced air furnace, then your cooling coil system will be fitted into it instead of being in an external unit which carries all these expensive fluids around with no problem whatsoever!

A fan-and-coil system will generally be found up in the attic where it has the ability to deliver cold air throughout the ducts. The twenty to thirty foot long pipes that carry the refrigerant are disguised to look like a downspout and can be installed right into an existing plenum or fabricated separately as needed if space limitations exist, but most commonly when there isn’t forced air available they’re located upstairs for better ventilation of cooler conditioned indoor temperatures.

Proper Placement

Almost every condenser will make some form of noise, so consider working with your contractor to find a location that is not near any bedrooms or home-office windows. Make sure it isn’t placed under an overhanging deck and enclose as little of its space possible because this will exhaust warm air out on top. It should be easy enough for airflow around it but you can hide in landscaping if need be – just don’t let anything block the way!

No Ducts? No Problem!

The vast majority of air conditioners are split systems: meaning that the condenser is outside and the fan-and-coil system is inside, connected to the condenser by pipes that run up your home’s exterior. These pipes have the ability to be covered up as part of a gutter or downspout system with little difficulty at all! Ductwork will be able to service second floor rooms by passing through ceiling registers while more ducts run right through closets on their way to first floor rooms.

Delivering the Air

There is a double-duty use for furnace ducts in the winter: they will provide heated air when it’s cold outside, and cool surroundings during scorching temperatures.

Does Your Home Have Ducts?

Duct systems are complex and often go unnoticed until something goes wrong. Air-conditioning ducts have to be inspected on a regular basis because the air produced by central AC is much greater than that of an older window unit or ceiling fan. Older units work well with retrofits, but they also tend to produce less airflow as time passes due to their larger size for increased efficiency in years past when newer technology wasn’t available.

Ever think that your air ducts could use a little sprucing up? We know how difficult it can be to decide which of the many modifications we should perform, so below are just some options.

You want to avoid having your furnace’s coils freeze? If so, you should upsize the blower on it. Without a large enough one, cool air won’t be able to flow through and keep things at an optimal temperature.

Sealing ducts is something that needs to be done by a professional. When you seal the vents, it can lead to hazardous conditions during the colder season or pockets of warm air when the cooling season comes around again.

The right kind of register can improve airflow up to 25%. The problem is, many older registers have slits just 1/4 inch wide. This may be too restrictive for some airflows and impede the flow by as much as 15%! Swap out your old grilles with new ones that offer a wider opening so you don’t miss any opportunity to better regulate temperature in your space.

If You Need to Install Ducts

With a fan-and-coil unit is generally found in the attic of many retrofit air conditioning systems, getting supply and return ducts to the ceiling registers on first or second floor rooms is not an easy task.

Ducts that feed second floor rooms will generally run across the attic floor and head down between the attic floor joists. Through this manner they will be connected to ceiling registers. Ducts can be tricky when feeding first or second floors because there is very little space in an average house for ductwork on these levels of a home’s structure. It is necessary to make sure any new construction incorporates enough room so this type of piping isn’t obstructed by other fixtures like furniture or walls which could restrict airflow.

The contractor will start by drawing a floor plan of the second story and laying it over one for the first. The closets on this level can give you access to ceiling vents located in other parts of your home, which is perfect if they’re too hard to reach or find any other way!

Ducts running in closets take up less space than you might think. The average size of a duct is 12×6 inches or possibly 10×8 inches, making it easy to fit them into even the tiniest closet spaces without taking up too much room. However, some cooling contractors may recommend using “flexible” (a small and inexpensive) hose instead of rigid square ducting since they don’t stand up well against wear-and-tear; but beware that flex hoses are more easily punctured by sharp objects like nails sticking out from furniture on either side when installing inside an active closet.

What kind of mess can you expect if you have to install ducts? In most cases, wall and ceiling surfaces are left largely untouched. Holes do have to be cut in first- and second-floor ceilings for registers, but these holes are relatively small and the mess is easily contained.

If you want your house to be comfortable in the summer months, think about adding an air-conditioning system. There are often hidden costs that could surprise you later on down the road and making this decision while it’s still reasonable for installation can save time and money. If ductwork is not available then make sure to contact contractors who will review all of your options in regard to cost as well as using different methods such as window units or portable A/Cs depending on what best suits needs based off of size, budget, efficiency concerns, etc.